The Other Alps

Thursday, 10 December 

The Long Drive
We had brekky at hotel (Hokitika Beachfront), because Ned had his heart set on the French toast with fried bananas and bacon... After provisioning at New World Market, we released the clutch at 10:45 and headed south from Ho-Ho-Hokitita (a nod to the upcoming holidays), anticipating a 400+ km road trip. Much of the way, we had drizzle and even rain, certainly a low ceiling of clouds.

Franz Josef aka Hinehukatere
After a few stops en route, by 1PM we were at Franz Josef, a town and a glacier named after the European. While more challenging to pronounce and remember, I prefer its Maori name: Ka Roimata Hinehukatere (tears of Hinehukatere) because of the story and nod to the people who actually lived here (I don't know that FJ ever visited or even acknowledged of the existence of NZ).

Hinehukatere, upon learning that her lover had died while climbing the mountains, was understandably broken hearted. Her consequent tears flowed down the mountain as a river of ice and formed the glacier as a reminder of her grief.

Onto Lunch
We had a late lunch at Salmon Farm Cafe overlooking the Waituna Creek and Paringa River Valley. It's between Bruce Bay and Haast on the "Wild West" coast of South Island, New Zealand.

The Salmon Farm

Ned's Smoked Salmon Stack

Ann's Smoked Salmon Plate

Rainforest

We bid adieu to the Tasman Sea at Knight's Point, following Highway 6 southwest and inland.

Knight's Point

The Other Alps
The rain stopped then OMG! We were gobsmacked by the majestic beauty we encountered as we climbed into the Southern Alps. Snow capped granite peaks pierced the blue sky. Giant ferns and other rainforest flora were cut by silver ribboned waterfalls. The juxtaposition of Alpine (been there) and Rainforest (been there too) is beyond words, and even the photos cannot adequately capture our experience.

The glacial fed Wanaka River 

View from the car

Glacial waters of the Haast River

We did stop to take a short walk to see the Fantail Falls. While there, we met young travelers with bedrolls and light packs, headed up to the Brewster hut - a 3 hour hike.

Note: This part of NZ has this amazing trek and trail system with huts along the way. In January 1982, Ned, Jim Mathey and Andy Homan spent three days trekking the Milford Sound hut-to-hut.

Fantail Falls

As we made our descent, following the glacial-fed Wanaka River, we inevitably encountered Lake Wanaka (accent on the first syllable), rimmed by the impressive Southern Alps.

Lake Wanaka

We are now ensconced at the Wanaka Heights Motel, overlooking the lake and the peaks beyond.
This is bliss!


P.S. I am fascinated by the distinct Kiwi "accent" here. Even though we all speak English, they struggle with our dialect as much as we struggle with theirs (e.g., /goed maydoe/ = gold medal; /ahpoe soiduh/ = apple cider; and /kayd/ = carried). I am working almost as hard as I do when we travel in Spanish speaking countries!